Unique to Sichuan, ma is the spicy flavor of a wild tree peppercorn called huajiao-with a taste between peppercorn, caraway, and clove, but so strong that too much will numb the mouth. Two varieties grow in Sichuan, clay red peppercorns and the more perfumey brown ones. La means "hot spice" and is accomplished with small burning red peppers. The combined seasoning, ma-la, defines the taste of Sichuan food.
( Mark Kurlansky )
[ Salt: A World History ]
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