{Commentary by J.-P. Quélin, food critic for Le Monde}. {New York and London chefs} are cooking, he says, at a level of originality that defies judgment, defies criticism, defies the grammar of cuisine. {This I think is true. When I took my brother to L'Arpege for his birthday we got fourteen -small- courses ... that made even the best of the old cuisine look like sludge.} /289
( Adam Gopnik )
[ Paris to the Moon ]
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